Morgan Street Snacks returns to the next Monday Night Foodball

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Morgan Street Snacks returns to the next Monday Night Foodball

A climate-related mishap eighty-sixed the black truffle bourbon chocolate chunk cookies.

“I’ve been making that cookie a good while now,” says Ryan Cofrancesco. “It was constantly changing. I definitely gained a lot of pounds creating that cookie.”

You know Cofrancesco. He’s the mastermind behind the Morgan Street Snacks pop-up, prepping for a three-month takeover at Kimski beginning in January. It was that freak heat wave late last September that foiled him from bestowing this powerful cookie upon a sweaty but otherwise satisfied crowd gathered at a certain half-century-old dive bar in Avondale.

The good news is that the cookie is finally coming this December 16 when Morgan Street Snacks returns to Monday Night Foodball, the Reader’s weekly chef pop-up at Frank and Mary’s Tavern.

The cookies in question, Morgan Street Snacks Credit: Ryan Cofrancesco

Apart from holding it down as sous chef at Kimski, Cofrancesco continues to workshop his upcoming menu, and he’s previewing it just for you.

He’s taking the same Makowski sausage on the menu in Bridgeport, but bedding it on brioche, with bourbon mustard, wasabi sesame seeds, and a relish of classic Chicago-dog toppings, with Torres jamón ibérico potato chips on the side.

There’s a trio of pan-fried potato-cheese pierogi on mushroom pâté, with apple chutney, thyme-kissed sour cream, and cranberry gelee.

He’s tweaked his gorgeous beet-cured salmon tartine into a tostada with truffle cream cheese, pickled fennel, and fried garlic. And he’s raising it with an Australian wagyu steak and egg tostada with chimichurri, pickled fennel, fried shallots, and a cured yolk snow shower.

Will he continue to freestyle like Phife Dawg between now and Monday and January 2? Probably, but that cookie? It’s locked down.

Come for it this December 16, at 2905 N. Elston in Avondale, starting at 6 PM until sellout.

There are two more Foodballs this year before a brand-new 2025 schedule drops: Dhuaan BBQ on December 23 and Loud Mouth on December 12.


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Mike Sula (he/him) is a senior writer, food reporter, and restaurant critic at the Chicago Reader. He’s been a staffer since 1995.

His story about outlaw charcuterie appeared in Best Food Writing 2010. His story “Chicken of the Trees,” about eating city squirrels, won the James Beard Foundation’s 2013 M.F.K. Fisher Distinguished Writing Award. “The Whole Hog Project,” and “What happens when all-star chefs get in bed with Big Food?” were nominated for JBF Awards.

He’s the author of the anthology An Invasion of Gastronomic Proportions: My Adventures with Chicago Animals, Human and Otherwise, and the editor of the cookbook Reader Recipes: Chicago Cooks and Drinks at Home.

His work has appeared in the Chicago Tribune, the Chicago Sun-Times, NPR’s The Salt, Dill, Harper’s, Plate Magazine, Rolling Stone, and Eater. He’s the former editor in chief of Kitchen Toke.

He lives in Chicago and is the curator of Monday Night Foodball, a weekly chef pop-up hosting Chicago’s most exciting underground and up-and-coming chefs.

Sula speaks English and can be reached on X.

More by Mike Sula



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