Jessica Walks First returns to Monday Night Foodball

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Jessica Walks First returns to Monday Night Foodball

Great Cloud died suddenly in late September.

“My son’s emotions were big and strong like a great storm cloud,” says his mother Jessica Walks First. “No matter what he felt, he felt it big. He loved big. His personality was big. Even as a small child, elders told us he carried a powerful old soul in his body. Those old souls sometimes are here just long enough to teach us something. My son taught me about forgiveness, healing, laughter, and love. He taught me about strength and how to fight forward toward my dreams.”

Great Cloud, or Kāēqc Anahkwat in Menominee, was also known as Michael Louis Pamonicutt III, a 30-year-old father of two, champion grass dancer, tribal police officer, and passionate cook—a skill he picked up from his mom.

“Food and cooking: that was our love language,” says Walks First, the chef behind the all-Indigenous caterer Ketapanen Kitchen that will honor her late son this November 24 at the next Monday Night Foodball, the Reader’s weekly chef pop-up at Frank and Mary’s Tavern.

Adding to Walks First’s grief is the fact that there is no official cause of death yet (it’s under investigation). What’s keeping her going, she says, is her work.

For her fourth Foodball, she’s preparing his favorites, including a return of her bison brisket platter with Bannock roll, and choice of smoked cactus pear or blueberry barbecue sauce. She’s also doing her elote pasta salad, and her signature Menominee maple baked beans, with the proceeds going to offset his funeral expenses.

This Foodball has an added significance coming four days ahead of a national holiday that means something completely different for First Nations. “As Native people we don’t really celebrate Thanksgiving,” she says. “For us it’s a time of family, a time of connection, and a time to come together and honor those that walked on before us. And my son is now one of those.”

Ketapanen Kitchen starts serving at 5 PM until sellout this Monday, November 24, at 2905 N. Elston in Avondale.

Meantime, check out the full Foodball schedule.


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Mike Sula (he/him) is a senior writer, food reporter, and restaurant critic at the Chicago Reader. He’s been a staffer since 1995.

His story about outlaw charcuterie appeared in Best Food Writing 2010. His story “Chicken of the Trees,” about eating city squirrels, won the James Beard Foundation’s 2013 M.F.K. Fisher Distinguished Writing Award. “The Whole Hog Project,” and “What happens when all-star chefs get in bed with Big Food?” were nominated for JBF Awards.

He’s the author of the anthology An Invasion of Gastronomic Proportions: My Adventures with Chicago Animals, Human and Otherwise, and the editor of the cookbook Reader Recipes: Chicago Cooks and Drinks at Home.

His work has appeared in the Chicago Tribune, the Chicago Sun-Times, NPR’s The Salt, Dill, Harper’s, Plate Magazine, Rolling Stone, and Eater. He’s the former editor in chief of Kitchen Toke.

He lives in Chicago and is the curator of Monday Night Foodball, a weekly chef pop-up hosting Chicago’s most exciting underground and up-and-coming chefs.

Sula speaks English and can be reached on X.

More by Mike Sula



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