I Love Grill & Lemonade rolls Polish food to Monday Night Foodball

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I Love Grill & Lemonade rolls Polish food to Monday Night Foodball

Your window to eat an 18-inch Polish French bread pizza in a Cook Country Forest Preserve is closing.

Late last month, when I wrote about Justyna Haluch, the zapiekanka queen of Schiller Woods, I didn’t know that beginning next Friday, November 22, she and her cousin Damien are decamping from the parking lot and relocating to the Christkindlmarket . . . in Aurora.*

“Co ma piernik do wiatraka?” you might ask. Indeed. What does gingerbread have to do with a windmill?

She gave me this news when I asked her if she wanted to pull the truck up in front of a certain Avondale dive bar and sell her iconic open-faced cheesy, XXL Polish street food for an evening crowd that may not get out to the Woods during normal zapiekanka hours.

“Zapiekanka? Nie,” she said. But, “Kuchnia Polska? Tak.”

Make it so, I said.

So this November 18, Haluch is rolling her other I Love Grill & Lemonade food truck up to Monday Night Foodball, the Reader’s weekly chef pop-up at Frank and Mary’s Tavern in Avondale.

I’ve learned over the last month that, apart from zapiekanka, there isn’t much Haluch can’t do with her two-truck fleet: festival lemonade stands, ad hoc beer gardens, Christmas cookie grazes, stół wiejski (aka the Highlander “meat hut”), and an array of traditional Polish home cooking.

I Love Grill & Lemonade sausage platter

And that’s what she’ll be serving, hot off her white step van bedecked with brilliant floral wycinanki folk art.

She’s bringing a combo platter with pierogi, sausage, kraut, and pickle, all gilded with bacon bits.

She has a meat and potato and cheese pierogi combo, with bacon, green onion, pickle, and sour cream.

She’s throwing down a kiełbasa quartet with regular smoked Polish sausage, parówka (the Polish hot dog), kiszka (aka blood sausage), and  biała kiełbasa (a white sausage, like a weisswurst).

And for dessert, sweet cheese blintzes with fresh fruit, whipped cream, and chocolate syrup.

Put that cold war nostalgia behind you. Put the cold night behind you. This is a Foodball of abundance, beginning at 5 PM, Monday, November 18, at 2905 N. Elston in Avondale.

Meantime, check out the full winter 2024 Foodball schedule below.

*The zapiekanka truck might show up at the Woods on Tuesdays during this period. Check the ILG&L Facebook for updates.


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Mike Sula (he/him) is a senior writer, food reporter, and restaurant critic at the Chicago Reader. He’s been a staffer since 1995.

His story about outlaw charcuterie appeared in Best Food Writing 2010. His story “Chicken of the Trees,” about eating city squirrels, won the James Beard Foundation’s 2013 M.F.K. Fisher Distinguished Writing Award. “The Whole Hog Project,” and “What happens when all-star chefs get in bed with Big Food?” were nominated for JBF Awards.

He’s the author of the anthology An Invasion of Gastronomic Proportions: My Adventures with Chicago Animals, Human and Otherwise, and the editor of the cookbook Reader Recipes: Chicago Cooks and Drinks at Home.

His work has appeared in the Chicago Tribune, the Chicago Sun-Times, NPR’s The Salt, Dill, Harper’s, Plate Magazine, Rolling Stone, and Eater. He’s the former editor in chief of Kitchen Toke.

He lives in Chicago and is the curator of Monday Night Foodball, a weekly chef pop-up hosting Chicago’s most exciting underground and up-and-coming chefs.

Sula speaks English and can be reached on X.

More by Mike Sula



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